Description
The Museo Civico di Pistoia is the city's main art museum, housed in the Palazzo degli Anziani, the 14th-century town hall on Piazza del Duomo. Seven centuries of painting, from the 13th to the 19th century, tell the story of Pistoia and its relationship with Florence, now of dependence, now of pride. On the mezzanine there's also the Documentation Centre devoted to the architect Giovanni Michelucci.
The route starts with the oldest panels, on gold grounds. The first to look for is Saint Francis with Scenes from His Life, attributed to Coppo di Marcovaldo: the saint in the middle, his miracles in life and after death all around, scene after scene.
Next to it are the Lamentation over Christ by Lippo di Benivieni and the Madonna and Saints by the Master of 1310. The richest section is the 16th century, with its great altarpieces: the Sacred Conversation by Lorenzo di Credi, the one by Ridolfo del Ghirlandaio and the Madonna della Pergola by Bernardino Detti of Pistoia.
On the second floor you move on to the 17th and 18th centuries, with Hero and Leander by Giacinto Gimignani and the Judgement of Midas by Jacopo Chimenti. Set apart is the Puccini collection, which came from the Villa di Scornio: among its works is Giuseppe Bezzuoli's portrait of Niccolò Puccini.
The Giovanni Michelucci Documentation Centre holds over 2,000 drawings and about 300 projects by the great architect, from his first works to his last years. Among his buildings are the Church of San Giovanni Battista on the Autostrada, the church at Longarone and, in Pistoia, the Borsa Merci and the Church of the Vergine.
Before going in, take a look at the palace façade. In the middle is a large Medici coat of arms with bronze ornaments, in honour of Pope Clement VII.
To the left of the large central window juts out a black marble head, with a spiked mace and some keys hanging below it. Tradition attributes it to Grandonio de' Ghislieri, semi-legendary hero of an expedition to the Balearic Islands; others say it is the traitor Filippo Tedici, displayed like the head of a condemned man.
The keys, known as “of the Balearics”, are probably in fact those of the city jails, opened in 1399 during the penitential processions. And the palace itself has a story of surprising efficiency: in 1339, to enlarge it, the council expropriated and compensated the neighbouring houses in just twenty-six days.
Don't miss
• Coppo di Marcovaldo's Saint Francis.
• The 16th-century Sacred Conversations.
• The Puccini collection.
• The black marble head on the façade.
Did you know?
• The palace is also called “di Giano”, after the podestà Giano della Bella, who however only made the first purchases of houses.
The route starts with the oldest panels, on gold grounds. The first to look for is Saint Francis with Scenes from His Life, attributed to Coppo di Marcovaldo: the saint in the middle, his miracles in life and after death all around, scene after scene.
Next to it are the Lamentation over Christ by Lippo di Benivieni and the Madonna and Saints by the Master of 1310. The richest section is the 16th century, with its great altarpieces: the Sacred Conversation by Lorenzo di Credi, the one by Ridolfo del Ghirlandaio and the Madonna della Pergola by Bernardino Detti of Pistoia.
On the second floor you move on to the 17th and 18th centuries, with Hero and Leander by Giacinto Gimignani and the Judgement of Midas by Jacopo Chimenti. Set apart is the Puccini collection, which came from the Villa di Scornio: among its works is Giuseppe Bezzuoli's portrait of Niccolò Puccini.
The Giovanni Michelucci Documentation Centre holds over 2,000 drawings and about 300 projects by the great architect, from his first works to his last years. Among his buildings are the Church of San Giovanni Battista on the Autostrada, the church at Longarone and, in Pistoia, the Borsa Merci and the Church of the Vergine.
Before going in, take a look at the palace façade. In the middle is a large Medici coat of arms with bronze ornaments, in honour of Pope Clement VII.
To the left of the large central window juts out a black marble head, with a spiked mace and some keys hanging below it. Tradition attributes it to Grandonio de' Ghislieri, semi-legendary hero of an expedition to the Balearic Islands; others say it is the traitor Filippo Tedici, displayed like the head of a condemned man.
The keys, known as “of the Balearics”, are probably in fact those of the city jails, opened in 1399 during the penitential processions. And the palace itself has a story of surprising efficiency: in 1339, to enlarge it, the council expropriated and compensated the neighbouring houses in just twenty-six days.
Don't miss
• Coppo di Marcovaldo's Saint Francis.
• The 16th-century Sacred Conversations.
• The Puccini collection.
• The black marble head on the façade.
Did you know?
• The palace is also called “di Giano”, after the podestà Giano della Bella, who however only made the first purchases of houses.